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Questions & Answers
Woody says, "Do you know the
difference between Hardwoods and Softwoods? Or what is Bird's Eye Maple?
If not, read on and find answers to your questions". |
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PLYWOOD
How is plywood made?
Plywood is composed of many layers, which are called plies or veneers.
The plies are created from 2 processes:
- The first is Rotary Cut. A log is spun on a roller
and a big knife peels off the skin of the log. (Just like peeling an
apple).
- The other is Flat Sliced. The log is sliced into long
thin slices lengthwise. (Just like slicing a carrot from head to bottom)
The plies are then sandwiched together with a resin
(glue) and pressed with enormous pressure. The plywood is then cut into
standard 4’ x 8’ lengths. Sometimes, depending on the customer needs the
sheets can be as big as 4’ by 20’ long. If the plywood has more plies,
such as, Baltic Birch Plywood, it makes it very stable.
There is also many types of plywood, including:
- Cabinet grade, for making kitchen cabinets,
furniture, woodworking projects, etc.
- Sheathing, used for siding on homes.
- Marine plywood has a waterproof resin so it can be
used for boats and exterior uses.
Plywood is graded by how many imperfections it has. If
the plies were clear with no knots, dents, discolouration, it would be
considered as Select, #1 or A Grade. If there were plenty of knots and
holes it would be lower down on the scale and be called a Shop or Utility
grade. For some people, if they’re working on a project and the appearance
is not necessary, they choose a “middle of the road “ grade.
When was plywood first developed and what is some
background history?
True plywood requires at least
three layers of veneer stacked so that the grain alternates 90 degrees.
The veneers are cross-layered and joined together by an adhesive.
The 1993 Hardwood Plywood Reference Guide, a publication of the Hardwood
Plywood & Veneer Association states that, "in 1830, the piano industry
became the first North American industry to use plywood. Wood & Wood
Products Magazine's Centennial issue (1996) says that, "in 1890, the
rotary cutting process was invented," and as a result of mechanization,
plywood became increasingly affordable.
In 1929 a pamphlet published by the National Committee On Wood Utilization
noted, "Plywood is a modern term describing an old product which did not
receive serious technical and economic consideration until its
adaptability to airplane and marine consideration was developed during
exhaustive tests at the Forest Products Laboratory."
The word "plywood" which was created in America, received official
sanction in dictionaries printed a few years later. That's plywood...
veneers on the other hand, dated back to the early Egyptians in the times
of the Pharaohs... about 4,000 years ago.
How
much does a sheet of plywood weigh?
Plywood weights will vary according to species and even
country of origin. A "ball Park" number for North American made softwood
plywood would be 23 lbs for a 4 x 8 x 1/4" sheet.
What is the difference between Luan Plywood and
regular good-one-side plywood?
Good one side is a recognized grade for Canadian made Fir plywood.
This panel is obviously made from Fir veneer and bonded on exterior grade
resins. The face is well sanded, repairs and natural defects (knots,
splits, etc) are limited. For further info try the Canadian Plywood
Association, www.canply.org/.
Laun is a term to reference a group of wood species. Laun plywood's come
in a variety of grades, some of which are similar to Good one side. Launs
are usually bonded with interior grad resins and are not equal to Fir
plywood in structural strength.
What type of
wood and sizes do you offer for scroll saw hobbyists?
The ideal wood for scroll saw work is
Baltic Birch. This special plywood is constructed with more veneers per
unit of thickness than other types of plywood. Manufactured in Europe,
this panel is ideal for routering, scroll sawing or for applications
requiring high stability. Available in 5' x 5' sheets and thickness 1/8”,
3/16”, 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, 3/4”. Prices are from $12.00(1/8) - $60.00 (3/4")
per sheet.
Plywood Grading
SHEATHING: Generally broken into 4 grades.
SELECT: Should be solid face, can allow some veneer splits, no wider than
1/16” knots are allowed, but must be sound and tight, not more than 1-1/4”
in diameter.
STANDARD: Face will be made from “C” veneer, can have knot holes in face
thru 1st layer of veneer only, knots are limited to 1-1/4” in diameter.
D GRADE: All fall down from above, including some face or back veneer
missing or loose.
CULL: Allows for any possible imperfections - delimitation, off square or
miss sized
MEASURING LUMBER
What is the difference between a linear foot and
board foot?
A linear foot is a measure of length 12 inches long and a
board foot is a number calculated by determining the volume of a board
that is 12 inches wide and 1 inch thick. In other words, a 1" x 6" board
that measures 24" long is exactly one board foot. (width" x thickness" x
length' / 12)
How do I figure out a board foot?
To convert linear feet to board feet: Thickness” x Width” x
Length’ ÷ 12
To convert board feet to linear feet: 12 ÷ Thickness” x Width” x Board
Foot
LUMBER
What are Hardwoods and Softwoods?
The degree of hardness has no bearing on whether the wood is a
hardwood or a softwood. Hardwood was the lumber cut from deciduous or
broad-leaved trees that produce enclose seeds such as Cherry, Maple,
Walnut, Oak, etc. Softwood was the lumber cut from coniferous or
needle-bearing trees that produce free unopened seeds such as the cones of
Fir, Cedar and Pine.
Why does bird’s eye occur in different kinds of wood?
It hasn’t been proven conclusively what the actual cause is, however it is
known that it only occurs in trees which undergo growth stress from
competing with surrounding trees for light and nourishment.
Studies have shown that a tree which has developed bird’s eye at an
earlier stage of its life will no longer develop the figuring in future
growth if the trees around it are cut down. Nearby maple trees that also
developed bird’s eye continued to do so if the neighbouring fauna was left
undisturbed.
The
dimensions of rough cut lumber determine the lumber's nominal size. This
can be misleading to a novice when lumber is referred to in sizes which
are not the actual dimensions. So how does it work?
After surfacing, a board might be reduced by as much as 1/4" on
each side but it will still be identified by the nominal width. This is
the Erosion a nominal 2" x 4" board, a "two-by-four", is actually only one
and one half by three and one half inches in size. Here are the nominal
and actual sizes for most common lumber: A nominal 1" x 2" is actually
3/4" x 1-1/2. a nominal 1" x 6" is actually 3/4" x 5-1/2", a nominal 2" x
4" is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2". Most construction lumber is supplied in
lengths of eight, ten, and twelve feet.
Is it better to paint a big project
piece by piece or as a whole assembled together?
Piece by piece is always the best way to get
full coverage and to avoid painting around hardware, etc.
I've been building furniture, mostly
out of pine, and I've been very disappointed to find that after a project
is finished the joints become loose and some of the pieces no longer fit
properly. I suspect that it has something to do with humidity. What do I
do?
Wood is an organic substance and expands and
contracts with changes in humidity... always has... always will! The
secret is to work the wood only after it has adjusted to local conditions.
Every workshop should be equipped with a storage area where wood can be
air dried. Wood should be purchased well in advance and it's moisture
content should be in a 7 to 12% range. You can usually be assured that the
wood is not to wet if it is sold as "Kiln dried", however even then it is
a good idea to let it air dry in your shop for a while. Following these
procedures should minimize shrinkage and splitting.
When did chestnut trees disappear?
Chestnut blight has devastated North American stocks over the past
20 years. Wood from infected trees is of no commercial value. In an effort
to contain the spread of the disease there are severe restrictions on the
cutting and transportation of the timber.
FLOORS
The hardwood floors
were previously done with a high gloss finish. It is starting to peel in
sections, how do I fix it?
You should sand it all and refinish
it.
How can you make Douglas
Fir floors look good again?
They can be sanded and varnished to look
their best again.
Can you install a layer of T&G plywood over a 3/4” plywood subfloor?
Should the T&G run in the opposite direction and what is the best way to
nail the T&G connection point?
You can install T&G over 3/4” plywood subfloor. It should run
across the subfloor and it is best to use flooring screws. The usual
application schedule is 6” spacing around the perimeter and 12” on the
field.
How do I fix a squeaky hardwood floor?
The squeak is probably in the subfloor over
a floor joist. Best way is to run screws into the subfloor through the
joint nearest the squeak. If this is awkward, first screw a 2 x 2 to the
side of the joint tight to the subfloor, then screw up through the 2 x 2
into the subfloor.
I would like to know who manufactures the "glueless" Viva-clic
laminate flooring. Also can you give me the results of the Taber testing
on it?
It is made in Germany by Holz Dammers Moers. Taber testing alone is no
longer considered to be a reliable measure of abrasion resistance as
results can be easily manipulated. It should be considered only when
included in a battery of other tests conducted by an independent testing
facility. Viva has been given a Class 23 (residential) and class
31(commercial) rating in such tests.
Can you use Oak plywood as a "Hardwood" flooring?
Don't even think about it. The veneer is only 1/48" max thick and can't
tolerate abrasion unless given several coats of special floor finish. The
main reason not to, however, is that the core veneer of the cabinet
plywood are allowed voids, which could cause a furniture leg or a shoe
heel to pop through, ruining the floor and perhaps cause an injury. Use
products that are intended for flooring. |
MOULDINGS
How do I get the inside corner cut to match up when installing
the crown moulding?
One piece is butted into the corner and the other is coped to fit around the
first. The piece to be coped is cut at a 45-degree angle to reveal the profile.
A coping saw is then used, angled inwards slightly, to cut along the profile
revealed so that the cut takes the shape of the butted moulding. Once it has
been trimmed to fit, the coped piece is installed.
How do I join lengths
of mouldings?
When you have to join two pieces of moulding to form one
long continuous piece, use an overlapping 45° mitre cut. This is called a “scarf
joint”.
At what
height is chair rail moulding normally installed?
Chair rail moulding is normally
installed at 42" from the floor.
DOORS
How do I stop a rattling door?
If the door rattles less than 1/8”, you may be able to fix the problem simply by
adjusting the tab on the bearing side of the strike plate. These metal tabs are
made to take a slot screwdriver, and can be bent in and out, a little at a time
until the rattling is gone.
Relocating the strike plate or removing the door stop and renailing it againest
the closed and latched door can fix the sever rattle.
A new door into your existing
jamb
Follow these steps to learn how to
install new doors (that are already mortised or machined) to match your old
doorjamb.
Binding
Just because your door has been machined to match your door does
not mean it will fit perfect, particularly if the old door was wood. A wood door
may have warped or twisted over the years to fit the frame.
- If your door binds against the jamb after your hinges are tight and
well seated, you’ll have to identify the areas of interference and plane them
with a sharp hand plane. Don’t use a hand rasp, it is almost useless on wood.
- With the door shut, use a thin piece of cardboard and slide all around the
perimeter of the door. Mark interfering areas lightly with a pencil. Plane
lightly the excess.
DOOR HARDWARE
Hinges
- You should replace your old hinges because worn or loosely mounted hinges will
allow the door to sag and bind, no matter how well it fits the opening.
- You may need to adjust the hinges depending on how sqaure the frame is. Your
door will be machined to match your old door. If the jamb is out of square,
shimming adjustments may be required (a) behind the hinges or (b) behind the
jamb may require prior squaring up. Hinge box cardboard works well behind the
hinges if the door is not sitting square. If the jamb needs shimming, you may
have to remove the casing to shim up the jamb to make it square.
If the door binds, you can also achieve adjustment by
mortising the hinge onto the door slightly deeper.
If your hinges seem like they do not line up, one of the
following solutions may be of help to you:
- Loosen the hinge that will not go on and then put it into place and tighten
the hinge back up.
- Using a hammer, lightly tap the hinge that is higher than its partner to line
them up. The pins should then slip into place
Once you have your door on its hinges and door will not
close, check one of the following:
- The door is rubbing against the doorstop and you may have to mortise
the hinge further into the door.
- If the door is free near the bottom but binds near the top on the latch side,
the bottom hinge may be set in too deep. Remove the bottom hinge and put a piece
of cardboard inside and reset the screws. This problem may be reversed also.
- Check all screws to make sure they are tight.
Door Latches
If there is no binding and the hinges are tight and well seated, but the door
still refuses to behave... check out the latch. Most door closures are spring
loaded retractable latches. They connect to the door handle, that interlocks
with the opening in the strike plate on the door jamb. These two parts must line
up exactly when the door is closed.
OTHER
The label has left sticky stuff on my doors that I just purchased, how do
I get it off without scratching or harming the metal door?
Contact cement solvent or lacquer thinner can clean off sticky remnants. Be
careful to have plenty air circulation. The fumes can be toxic if breathed in
and flammable.
What material would you suggest for the top of a
shop work bench? Thickness?
The inexpensive solution is the
thickest MDF available. Traditionally,workbenches in woodworking shops are
laminated beechwood.
I'm looking for a good plywood
to make a kid's sand box, something that is good for outside. I will be putting
stain on it. I'm looking for 3/4" as it will be up of the ground.
All North American made construction
plywood is exterior rated. Use a sanded plywood instead of sheathing so the
kid's don't catch themselves on a rough surface. A grade such as ACX (American)or
G1S (Canadian) is ideal. Painting will provide far better protection than
staining;it is especially important to seal the edges to reduce water
penetration.
Can you help? I have an idea to line the bathroom
walls with ply instead of plaster etc. Can you advise grade and possible finish
as it will need to look good and be waterproof?
A bathroom with a shower presents similar moisture problems to that of a boat,
so marine grade is most appropriate. Sealing the edges is critical as this is
the most vulnerable point of entry for water vapour. On a boat, fiberglass is
often used, but that would be overkill on plywood except in the shower. A
urethane or varnish or a good quality oil-based paint should work.
We have recently returned to
Canada and are seeking some advice on how to restore our teak patio furniture.
While in the US, heavy rains created a mould problem in our patio furniture.
Most top-quality exterior wood
finishes contain a fungicide to delay the onset of mold. Oil finishes for
interior use do not contain this fungicide. Marine teak oil will work and allows
the natural feel of the wood to be maintained, however, it must be renewed on an
ongoing basis to fully protect the wood. Avoid pigmented stains/oils as the
excess pigments will rub off onto your clothes.
Marine grade varnish (formulated to adhere to the naturally
oily surface of teak) will provide better protection from mold than an oil
finish as the varnish reduces the amount of air that reaches the surface of the
wood (and oxygen helps the mold to grow). The downside to varnish is that you
won't feel the wood surface directly and when varnish eventually needs to be
recoated one must first strip the old varnish. Behr makes a good marine (a.k.a.
'spar') varnish.
Can a new piece of laminate be put on top of a Formica®
countertop?
If the old piece is well
bonded to the countertop substrate. You must first sand the old laminate so that
contact cement will bond.
How do I
repair a split in wood furniture (desk)?
You can repair the split by using
Epoxy Adhesive and clamping it together. The repair will be stronger than the
original wood.
Looking for plans and materials to build bunk beds?
The best bet is to check out the Woodsmith magazine. Woodsmith is chalked full
of plans, tips and tricks. They have excellent plans with great diagrams and
material lists. Look for Woodsmith #38. It has plans for bunk beds. Also, ask
the stores about the Woodsmith Index. It has all the plans and projects list
from A - Z.
How to preserve mahogany furniture for storage
First a sheet to keep dust off. Wax covering the open ends helps, but it
won't protect the wood from changes in humidity, which is the real threat. If
you can keep a Humidifier nearby it would help.
How to restore our teak patio furniture?
Most top-quality exterior wood finishes contain a
fungicide to delay the onset of mold .Oil finishes for interior use do not
contain this fungicide. Marine teak oil will work and allows the natural feel of
the wood to be maintained,however,it must be renewed on an ongoing basis to
fully protect the wood. Avoid pigmented stains/oils as the excess pigments
will rub off onto your clothes.
Marine grade varnish (formulated to adhere to the naturally oily surface of
teak) will provide better protection from mold than an oil finish as the varnish
reduces the amount of air that reaches the surface of the wood (and oxygen helps
the mold to grow).The downside to varnish is that you won't feel the wood
surface directly and when varnish eventually needs to be recoated one must
first strip the old varnish.
When
redecorating a room, should the baseboards be left on or off?
When a room is to be redecorated extensively, including
new wallpaper and new carpets, it is best to take all the baseboards off. This
will allow you to run the wallpaper down the wall so that the baseboard can
cover the edge. It will also allow you to strip all the old paint or other
finish off the baseboards with a liquid stripper much more easily than left in
place. You can also refinish them much more easily. Be sure to label the pieces
of baseboard on the backside as you take them off and label the wall below the
level of the wallpaper with a Corresponding code. An added advantage of doing it
this way is the carpet installers will invariably do some damage to your newly
refinished baseboards with their tools if they have to lay new carpet with the
baseboards in place.


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